At last, it’s time for white wines with fresh flavor.

To me, May calls for wine that tastes “pure and clean.” There are four key varietals, all of them white, that offer this character: sauvignonblanc, pinotgrigio, riesling, and albariño. Like seasonal greens and tender vegetables, these wines are light with a freshness on the palate that feels just right this time of year.

Pinot grigio (also called pinot gris): The flavors vary by producer, but typically are crisp and clean. Italian versions tend to be light, while domestic pinot gris has more intensity. Try J. Hofstatterpinot grigio from Italy, Morgan pinot gris from California, or the Eyrie Vineyards pinot gris from Oregon.

Sauvignon blanc: Reminiscent of everything green—herbs, grass, green tea—sauvignon blanc pairs well with dishes featuring vegetables and herbs. While none are mild, sauvignon blancs from California are more restrained. Those from New Zealand and South Africa are more outrageous and wild. Try Kunde or Honig from California, or Villa Maria or Sauvignon Republic from New zealand.

Riesling: Peach, apricot, and nectarine flavors hide a refreshing acidity. German riesling is light and crisp; Australian and Austrian riesling is dry and zingy. Try Pewsey Vale from Australia or Dr. Loosen from Germany.

Albariño: Only recently available in the United States, this Spanish varietal is like tiesling, pinot grigio, and sauvignon blanc rolled into one, but subtly. The grape is grown near the coast in northwest Spain, and the wine has the freshness of ocean air. Try Paw San Mauro, Laxas, Nora, or Adegas Galegas Soutoimaior.